February 13

The first expedition of RMS XX got off to an interesting start. After driving to Utah to begin our first expedition in Grand Gulch, we were turned around by a huge snowstorm. We returned to HMI, and after three days of skiing at Ski Cooper, we began our drive to the KOFA National Wildlife Refuge in southwestern Arizona. The drive out was particularly exciting as we played games, took bets on when the snow would disappear and shed layers as we drove into warmer and warmer weather. We arrived at our respective trailheads after our long road journey and started with our basic classes on hydration, properly adjusting and putting on a pack, and sun protection before heading out on our first hike. We waved goodbye to our vans to start off our eight-day hike through the Sonoran Desert. As we embarked on our first day of hiking everyone was a little bit awkward, since we were all still so new to the RMS community. As the day went on the uncomfortable walls we had all built around ourselves began to break down. Our first day ended with the nightly meeting of all the students and instructors. This meeting included learning the first Leave No Trace principle, and we were introduced to new concepts such as Leader of the Day: a designated opportunity for a student to be in charge of the next day’s hiking logistics. Our meeting ended with a tradition we call Circle. Everyone went around and gave their input on the topic presented by one of the group members. We all meandered back to our tarps and got a good night’s sleep after a day full of new experiences in a new environment.

As exciting as backpacking across the desert can be, HMI is a school after all. Before departing from campus, the teachers provided us with assignments to be completed while in the field. Not only did we learn major aspects of respecting and preserving wilderness, but we had two layover days (days when we camped in the same location two nights instead moving our campsite) dedicated to academic work. The assignments included readings by major literary figures such as Henry David Thoreau, Edward Abbey, and Terry Tempest Williams. The unique experience of doing homework in the backcountry is heightened by the beauty of the landscape and the peaceful sounds of being in solitude. The readings illustrated different aspects of the wild, from the different types of cacti we tried to avoid daily to the spiritual effect nature imposes on man. Our instructors facilitated the discussions of the texts. Active participation by the entire group was vital in analyzing the major themes of the readings. Everyone had opportunities to voice their thoughts and gain perspective on different aspects of government, spirituality, and wilderness preservation. Not only were we involved in academic discussions, but we also learned the value of respecting nature. Every morning before we began our hike, the instructors spent an hour teaching us leadership skills, risk management concepts, and Leave No Trace principles. When we entered the Sonoran Desert, the average classroom format was left behind, and a new appreciation for nature, literature, and group cohesiveness was gained.

Hiking was (obviously) a big part of the expedition. It took a couple of days to adjust to carrying heavy packs, but it wasn’t long before we got in the rhythm as our packs got lighter with each meal (and we toughened up a bit). Since we were in the desert and water sources were limited, our hiking route was dictated by the location of various water tanks. There were no trails in the area, so we relied fully on topography maps to navigate between tanks. This was challenging at times but really enabled us to get more confident in our map reading skills as we located features around us and matched them to features on the map. Our hiking days varied in length depending on the terrain from a couple of miles to a high of about nine miles. Our most technical day was a steep ascent of a scraggly mountain ravine. Putting our risk management skills to use, we carefully navigated to the top with the help of hand lines in a couple of particularly steep areas.

The geography of the KOFA was amazing to hike throug. There were towering spires and huge cliffs which were spotted with saguaro cacti and teddy-bear cholla. Almost every day we would be climbing to the top of a steep slope to admire the view. Several times we found ourselves having to scramble up smaller cliffs and then proceed to pass our packs up to the person at the top. We also got to witness some of the coolest rock arches in the world. Each day seemed to get more and more beautiful. Another amazing thing about the trip was the wildlife; we saw everything from desert tarantulas and giant hairy scorpions (always at a safe distance) to golden eagles and jack rabbits. One day after hiking many miles in and out of canyons and cliffs, I stumbled upon a tarantula the size of my hand. After almost having a heart attack, we took some sweet pictures. Overall, it was amazing hiking through such an inspiring landscape.

Once we reached camp, my tarp group’s common routine was to scout around for a place to set up our tarp and another place to set up our kitchen. Once those places were found, two of us set up the tarp using a pair of hiking poles and stakes and rocks, and the other two set up the kitchen. Cooking was a really fun part of the expedition. We were given a NOLS Cookery book filled with all sorts of delicious recipes, and it was really relaxing to cook after a day of hiking. Kat and I made potato-cheese latkes one night, which were absolutely amazing. Another culinary highlight was when our whole expedition group cooked together to learn how to bake pizza. Cooper, my expedition leader, dressed up as Chef Boy-I’m-Hungry, complete with a wig, a chef hat, and a pair of fake yellow teeth. The pizza turned out to be really good, and Cooper said that it was some of the best pizza he had seen! It was fun to experiment with everything, just to see what you could possibly make. Come nightfall, my tarp group laid down our ground cloths and set up our sleeping pads and sleeping bags. The sky in KOFA was a gorgeous blue everyday, and at night it was completely clear, with millions of stars visible, so most of the time we slept under the stars. That was a great part of the expedition, because we went to sleep looking up at the stars, and we woke up in the morning to a beautiful sunrise.

By: Roz Brokaw, Lizzie Beale, David Scott, Raiye Adelaide, and Katie Fellows